Thursday, November 28, 2013

Thanks, Givings

As the season whirls on, I am at the whim of cycles as well. Winter walks toward us softly -- or as softly as such a giant can -- and sun doesn't seem to make it out of bed in the morning, propping itself up on an arm and lazily peering down upon the city (it never moves above a 45 degree angle in the sky), then hunkering back down again early. It becomes dark by five.

It has become cold as well. And as we begin to witness one another's breath, I am reminded that this is also the "tacit way we express the intimacy that no one talks about" (that's Gretel Ehrlich). Rain swoops in like the seagulls that dive after boats on the Bosphorous, then sits in heavy for the long haul. The forecast is grey matter, seemingly forever. So we keep it in.

Which begs an introduction of... the MEN OF CONSTANT SORROW:

Savage and Phillip not depicted, as they are currently mustache-less

We've got Italy, the States, Iceland, Australia, Algeria/France, and Germany straight covered.

Standing with Shady on the corner the other day, we realized that we both had mustaches, similar haircuts, were wearing each others clothes, and that our slang has mingled and grown into a peculiar idiom. But I'd like to think that our exchange moves through more than just our expression -- in a city that has me feeling so, so far away from nature (and acute awareness of things moving inside you that comes from being in it), what we share has become my solace.

At this point, we've moved beyond the newness of meeting one another, and now realize that our time here is passing, will pass. The community that we've grown here (it's not all bros, I swear) feels simple and essential, like family. At least in my eyes. All in all, Shady put it right -- our time here is moving deliciously fast. So here's a little diddy of mine inspired by our wondering about the cultural dialogue that we've all struck up together...

"Whitman once bequeathed himself to the earth beneath our footsoles, and if we are to find him there, then you may find me in the voice beneath each and every mustache we have bloomed here in this city. Call it collective effervescence or general mayhem, but we move into and past one another, sharing much more than clothes and the ways in which we might place them upon our bodies.

In thinking of us, and Istanbul, I’ve found that our dialogue here, although conveyed through haphazard fashion and the solidarity found in seeking a pure otherness – achieved in expressing a distinct, genuine presence – glows as a result of our acceptance and willingness to slip into an intimacy from which we might never recover. Whether or not it be caused by the convenience arisen from the brevity of our stay together, we fall into one another’s arms and speak with each other’s tongues and we are loud and if men are not loud then they are old.

Thus, we commune only with those who are willing to pull the edges of our horizons down into each smile, to render the seemingly infinite possibilities of our time quite simple; ours is a deep trust in a life that moves much like the river that we sit above and ponder over – forever swift, with us forever caught in its current.

Maybe, in seeking orientation and guidance, truth, we move too quickly over ground not yet solid. And if this shared dialect fades like all things do, let us hope that this new sincerity will find itself manifested over and over throughout the rest of our lives, packing down hard and tough, some roadbed for us to finally walk upon.

For resting: what I love most of all about our youth is this – in this grand becoming, we are such, such fools for the world. And yet, whoever you are, I mustache you something – are you not one too?"


While I'm at this, I'm just going to keep going...

In final thanksgivings, I am deeply grateful for the river to which I attend daily.  Orhan Pamuk says that Istanbul derives it's strength from the Bosphorous; the river is the soul of the city. And there I sit on the waterfront, feet dangling like a small boy, gazing out. Watching it all go by. It brings me to a passage from Rilke's Second Elegy:

But we, when moved by deep feeling, evaporate; we
breathe ourselves out and away; from moment to moment
our emotion grows fainter, like a perfume. Though someone may tell us:
"Yes, you've entered my bloodstream, the room, the whole springtime
is filled with you..." -- what does it matter? he can't contain us,
we vanish inside him and around him. And those who are beautiful,
oh who can retain them? Appearance ceaselessly rises
in their face, and is gone. Like dew from the morning grass,
what is ours floats into the air, like steam from a dish
of hot food. O smile, where are you going? O upturned glance:
new warm receding wave on the sea of the heart...
alas, but that is what we are. Does the infinite space
we dissolve into, taste of us then?


We Talked About It Late Last Night...

It's Thanksgiving and I'm skipping classes and here's what Istanbul's melancholy (it's essence, according to Orhan Pamuk, it's nobel prize winning author) had friends share in the kitchen last night...

And when the wheat you've known
forever sours in the wrong wind and you smell it
dying in those acres where you played, please know
old towns we loved in matter, lovers matter, playmates, toys,
and we take from our lives those days when everything moved,
tree, cloud, water, sun, blue betwen two clouds, and moon,
days taht danced, vibrating days, chance poem. -- Victor Hugo, Letter to Kathy from Wisdom


You have traveled too fast over false ground;
Now your soul has come to take you back.

Take refuge in your senses, open up
To all the small miracles you rushed through.

Become inclined to watch the way of rain
When it falls slow and free.

Imitate the habit of twilight,
Taking time to open the well of color
That fostered the brightness of day.

Draw alongside the silence of stone
Until its calmness can claim you. -- John O'Donohue, from A Blessing for One Who is Exhausted


Had I the heavens' embroidered cloths,
Enwrought with golden and silver light,
The blue and the dim and the dark cloths
Of night and light and the half light,
I would spread the cloths under your feet:
But I, being poor, have only my dreams;
I have spread my dreams under your feet;
Tread softly because you tread on my dreams. -- W.B. Yeats, I Have Spread My Dreams


Wednesday, November 13, 2013

No, Really, back in Iraq...

Just back from a Wednesday night excursion to Bulgaria (the ol' cross the border, wrestle, and come back, just to say you did it routine), and feeling the need to splay out the cards that I was dealt in Iraq; there are a few things that need to be spoken plainly...

I knew practically nothing about Northern Iraq (aka Iraqi Kurdistan, as opposed to Turkish or Syrian Kurdistan -- it's all a rather ill-defined geo-ethni-political region) until right about the moment that Savage and I hitched across the border via the perfect storm of a ride from a paper-delivery man who said absolutely nothing to us other than when and where to hand passports in order to secure visas. Once in Iraq (weeee!), we stuck out our hands to continue our hitching-odyssey, and...

no rides.

You can't really hitch in Iraq. We did manage to attract a glut of taxi-driver attention though, and finally figured out that taking a shared taxi to our final destination of Erbil (the capital of Kurdistan) was our only option, as there isn't really a bus system in Iraq. So we chummed it up with our fellow passenger, an english-speaking student, en route, all to the chime, wail, and rattle of traditional Kurdish music through blown out speakers.

The socio-political situation began to crystallize a bit as we waited for two hours at a check point in order to enter the outskirts of Erbil while police searched vehicles for bombs, etc.; these shake-downs are recent developments, and our student friend made this, via painstaking effort, very, very clear. He made sure we understood that they -- I can't figure out how to say this any other way -- hate the Arabs. There's a serious distrust and loathing toward what they consider to be the cause of their ruined reputation as Iraqi's. While Kurdistan possesses separate control over its visas from Southern Iraq (they also have a separate parliament -- their pretty much a state of Iraq), Kurdistanites (that can't be the right term) bemoan their inability to travel almost anywhere because all Iraqi's still have the same passport.

Clearly, there are some cultural tensions. Probably in part because the place is downright culturally confused. After spending a day there, we still couldn't figure out what language people were speaking to us -- all the signs were in Arabic, Kurdish, and English, yet people spoke German and Turkish to us as well. And it's not as if the signs really matter in Erbil, as there is no functioning bus system, which led to an eery sensation of place-lessness. It's very difficult to develop a spatial relationship with anywhere that lacks rooted axis', routes, and schedules. As a result, pretty much no one knew where anything was, and more often than not, referred us to their cousins taxi driver when we asked for directions. For clarity, we spent half of our time in Erbil trying to find the bus station in order to get back to Turkey -- no one knew where it was, and we saw it randomly on the side of a road while taking a tax in a part of the city that we hadn't even heard of before.

In stride, ask me what we actually did in Iraq, and, well, I don't have much to say. There's nothing in particular 'to do' in Erbil -- basically, one can visit the old Citadel, hit the bazaar, or get lost in massive shopping mall. We ended up hanging out with our student friend again, but, unfortunately, that meant being subjected to his ardent attempts to impress upon us how western Erbil really is. The city, which is experiencing some serious foreign investment as well as sitting on oodles of cash from the regions oil reserves, is expanding at an alarming rate -- high-rises are shooting up all over and there's a distinct ritz-n-glitz vibe poking through the tangled, exposed electrical wires which dangle above each street. Regardless, pretty much all we managed to do was smoke shisha in massive Arabic robes (which we unfortunately couldn't sneak out with), pee in an alley, get haircuts (I got my cheeks floss-waxed!)(oh man that sounded much better in my head), take pictures with some police officers, eat too much falafel, and peace out.

That sounds pretty lame, and yet, per usual, there remains one preeminent, singular, saving grace: CAY, BABY! Iraqi cay is amazing -- for a helpless addict to Turkey's tea culture (didn't take but one cup), Iraq's brew straight blows it out the water. They spice it up, and, wait, you think you can choose whether or not you're going to be three spoonfuls of sugar deep on this one? Yeah, right, pal.

Jokes aside, I understand why the student was so keen on winning us over -- trust can feel as fragile as a new-born in your hands at times, and nowhere was this more palpable than Iraq; our pre-conceived notions were so deeply embedded in us that we felt like we were constantly getting ripped off, which resulted in some retrospective feelings of ass-holeness for giving people a hard time when they were charging us the normal price.

A lot of wariness also resulted from the stark contrasts to Turkey, where most people smile and talk to you (and shake your hand, and buy you cay; although getting free stuff has nothing to do with this... uhhh). It's not as though people were necessarily friendly in Iraq, but they weren't too cold either -- they just didn't really react to our presence at all (but they want us there, says the free ten-day tourist visa). Yet there was a very distinct, somber tone to the whole place, that of spirit withdrawn. Given the war, this comes as no surprise, and yet, it weighed on me more than I was willing to initially admit.

That being said, the majority of our interactions were positive, although in a much different manner from those that we've experienced in Turkey. After breaking down our encounters with locals, the only time we were slightly ripped off was by the barber -- even so, would I pay that much and more for a face-floss-wax again? HELL YES! Lesson learned: just because people aren't exceedingly expressive doesn't mean that they aren't good human beings.

It has been asked, why would one go to Iraq? Well, the prevailing credo that's emerge from all adventures here is, as my best Turkish friend, Vahid, puts it: Why NOT?

More obvious / important: don't judge until you've seen a country, its people, and drank the cay. There are good folk everywhere, no matter what fear-based media might show and tell.

Less obvious: queue this little poem that's been roaming about my mind over the last few days -- it's been keeping me loose when big bad rationality starts buzzing a bit too loudly (and little birds can be people too, you know)...

may my heart always be open

may my heart always be open to the little
birds who are the secrets of living
whatever they sing is better than to know
and if men should not hear them men are old

may my mind stroll about hungry
and fearless and thirsty and supple
and even if its sunday may i be wrong
for whenever men are right they are not young

and may myself do nothing usefully
and love yourself so more than truly
there's never quite been such a fool who could fail
pulling all the sky over him with one smile

--   ee cummings




Wednesday, November 6, 2013